FatherJack wrote:
Is that the same as cellulose thinners? I remember my dad used it to repair some technical lego of mine from a bike that took a journey down the stairs. You can buy buckets of if from Halfords for a few quid.
Nah, it's a concoction. Thinners iirc only reacts with a couple of specific plastics.
As for sand and grass, PVA is the way to go.
I also found that you can use sand to get a gravel effect, just need to paint the sand grey (and do some dry brushing with both darker and lighter colours) once the PVA is dry.
spoodie wrote:Do any painters have a good technique for removing paint from figures? I've had reasonable success with Dettol, but it's not entirely effective.
Not after it's gone and dried really, and it depends on paint.
I did find that Super Glue Remover worked really well at removing dried enamel at one point, however that was about 10 years ago and I can't remember if it did anything to the plastic as I seem to remember it being an spillage accident at the time.
amblin wrote:I stopped painted when the dt's started...
I thought of this. Painting is a good reason to cut down.
The best product seems to be Pine Sol, but it's not easily available in the UK, unless you buy in bulk. Dettol has some of the main ingredient, pine oil, so it kind of works. There's a knack to it as well.
spoodie wrote:Do any painters have a good technique for removing paint from figures? I've had reasonable success with Dettol, but it's not entirely effective.
Methylated spirits. Leave the figure in a ice cream tainer or such like for a few hours, no more paint.
It might keep some bits of residue from the meths but you can rinse/brush it usually. Shouldn't damage the figure at all.
Just takes longer to strip the paint. Though I'd be more inclined to be a bit more careful with the plastics. I wouldn't leave a plastic figure in brake fluid or spirits over night.
It will dissolve glue on a short term basis, and probably your figure if you did it for far too long.
