Headsets.
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Mr. Johnson
- Mr Flibbles

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Headsets.
I can't find the old thread, so new thread go.
Hektor chewed on my headphone cable, which means I now have a pair of expensive useless headphones.
So now I want a new pair of expensive headphones!
My old pair was a sennheiser, but I can't recall the exact type, and I don't think they make them anymore, so please spec me a new pair, sennheiser or otherwise, I consider sound to be pretty important so I don't mind if they cost a bit more, but I'm trying not to go over a 100 quid, and would like to stay well under it if at all possible.
Needs to have a mic too, just so you know.
Cheers dudes.
Hektor chewed on my headphone cable, which means I now have a pair of expensive useless headphones.
So now I want a new pair of expensive headphones!
My old pair was a sennheiser, but I can't recall the exact type, and I don't think they make them anymore, so please spec me a new pair, sennheiser or otherwise, I consider sound to be pretty important so I don't mind if they cost a bit more, but I'm trying not to go over a 100 quid, and would like to stay well under it if at all possible.
Needs to have a mic too, just so you know.
Cheers dudes.
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Mr. Johnson
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HereComesPete
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Dr. kitteny berk
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buzzmong
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Well, manufacturers can only really use ROHS Lead Free these days (which is ok, depends on the alloy used), but there's no sanctions on resalers or individuals, leaded is still available to buy and just what you need if you're doing a cable repair jobbie.Dr. kitteny berk wrote:
course, you'd probably get ROHS solder these days, which is shit
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Dr. kitteny berk
- Morbo

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Dr. kitteny berk
- Morbo

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Oh, it's probably also worth mentioning unless you're willing to replace the whole cable, you probably won't get far with many headsets.
There's every chance it's a 6 core cable that's made using magic and weird nylon type stuff, and is extremely difficult to solder.
Course, there's the option of cracking it open and soldering new cable onto the solder points on the drivers, but that's a pain. I use twisted pairs from decent (copper) network cable, it works well, but looks like shit.
I'd just buy another set of sennheisers if you found them comfortable etc.
There's every chance it's a 6 core cable that's made using magic and weird nylon type stuff, and is extremely difficult to solder.
Course, there's the option of cracking it open and soldering new cable onto the solder points on the drivers, but that's a pain. I use twisted pairs from decent (copper) network cable, it works well, but looks like shit.
I'd just buy another set of sennheisers if you found them comfortable etc.
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Anhamgrimmar
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Dr. kitteny berk
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ProfHawking
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I've got a pair of one of those. I don't like them because they're too fiddly to setup and they don't sound that good. I went back to my regular stereo set.Dog Pants wrote:Well there's always Speedlink Medusas. I loved my first pair with the breakout box. The second (USB) pair was a pain in the arse though. Really nice to wear, but I'm no expert on sound quality. Expensive too.
However if anyone can link me to a little app that plays sounds through each channel, so I can calibrate each volume control that would be appreciated.
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Mr. Johnson
- Mr Flibbles

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You're right, those are the ones I have, but before I go out to buy another pair I might give replacing the cable a go, it does seem to exist from the strange nylon stuff berk mentioned, but there are a million* different things in my dad's garage that could be useful.Dog Pants wrote:You may have had the Sennheiser PC161, which are lovely and still sold. I've got a pair, and I think a fair few others have. They're about £60 I think.
*slight exaggeration.
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Sheriff Fatman
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