Fantasy Board Games

[HereComesPete]

RAS Syndrome.

[MORDETH LESTOK]

Figures...Talisman OUT OF STOCK. One of these days I'll buy it...even though I won't have anyone to play with it...

[spoodie]

Figures...Talisman OUT OF STOCK. One of these days I'll buy it...even though I won't have anyone to play with it...

Looks like I got in there just in time, even the publisher is out. However it's definitely worth waiting for a buying when you can, assuming you have some willing players.

That reminds me. I got interested in this just in time to miss a lovely looking limited edition Space Hulk print. You can still get it for stupid money on eBay but I'm not that desperate. Also there appears to be a massive World of Warcraft board game as well.

And I could pedant the pedants right back, but I wont.

[shot2bits]

Also there appears to be a massive World of Warcraft board game as well.

there appears to be 3

this
http://www.wowwiki.com/World_of_Warcraf ... Board_Game

this

http://www.wowwiki.com/World_of_Warcraf ... nture_Game

and this one

http://www.wowwiki.com/Warcraft:_The_Board_Game

though the last one is based of the strategy warcraft games

[spoodie]

I investigated the World of Warcraft ones. They look quite good but apparently manage to emulate the chore element of the computer game somewhat.

Today I bought a miniatures painting starter kit. I'm going to have a bash at painting the boring grey figures in the Talisman set. It's been 15-20 years since I've done any mini painting. Anyone else do it/done it?

[Dog Pants]

I can do painting;

[Dr. kitteny berk]

Is that fuzzy hannah from CoH?

[Dog Pants]

She'd be squirting;

[spoodie]

Stuff

Ooh nice. I'm going to be picking your brains then, if that's alright? This is all I have now, apart from the addition of a base coat brush.

[Dog Pants]

Pick away. That kit doesn't look too bad. I've dozens of paints, but you can achieve any colour by mixing if need be, it's just more of a pain in the arse. The clippers are a bit pointless, you can do the same with a knife. A larger brush for undercoating, large areas and drybrushing is a must (so you don't fuck your good brushes), then a small brush for colouring smaller areas, then the smallest you can find (000 I think) for fine detail. The detail's the trick really, the rest's just technique.

[buzzmong]

Ooh nice. I'm going to be picking your brains then, if that's alright? This is all I have now, apart from the addition of a base coat brush.

I'll step in on this, I love me some painting models.

That set's alright, those small tubs go suprisingly far and best of all, it's acrylic paint. Washes out of brushes and importantly can be thinned out with water (important for creating washes, although I do prefer thinned enamel for that). They're also really good at mixing.

Little tip here though is to lightly undercoat all your model pieces while they're still on the sprue with either white or black acrylic spray paint (not GW's overpriced cans though), to make the GW paints adhere better, but also to make the colours either stand out a bit more (white coat) or be more subdued (black).

I'd also nip into the nearest art or hobby store and get some more brushes, no need for fancy ones, but a couple of general ones and a few fine ones will set you up nice.

The liquid cement supplied is ok but not quite suited to the task imo (it's halfway between proper liquid cement and normal plastic cement tubes so worst of both), and I found that more often than not you'll need to end up supporting your models in creative ways in order for the glue to dry in the positions you want it to, it's perfectly fine for what you need though.

As an fyi, I use this stuff, it's called Plastic Weld, it's like water but actually melts the very top layer of plastic (you can apply to both parts) forming a joint as strong if not stronger than the surrounding plastic, it's also dry in under 30 seconds (depends on plastic). Apply with a normal paint brush for ease of use, although it does mean sacrificing a paint brush to it due to the way it dries, handily dip the brush back in the PW next time you need to use it and you're good to go. Might be worth looking into if you're going to do more models.

Damn. I feel like painting models now.

[Joose]

You cunts. Now *I* want to break out the models.

I wonder if my old GW paints are still good? Its only been...18 years ... jeebus, some of my Eldar are old enough to get served booze and watch porn.

[HereComesPete]

I rarely if ever use a white undercoat. If I want heightened tones I add a little bit of white to my top layers instead.

I find that all the citadel paint is a bit thick for my liking, I always thin the stuff unless its getting slopped over a tank or similar.

I tried a technique of non-metallic metals on entire battle suits for my tau battleforce, purple and white with a black and then grey matte undercoat from a spray gun to reduce light reflection. Got through to the second round at golden demon then broke most of them on the bus home

I might break a few models out too, I was looking at my old board paints and cans of spray about a month ago because I discovered an aborted attempt at a mordheim table I had been building. Didn't find model paints though, apart from a few dried tins of airfix enamel.

[buzzmong]

I find that all the citadel paint is a bit thick for my liking, I always thin the stuff unless its getting slopped over a tank or similar.

Pete's reminded me that I ended up just adding a few extra drops of water to my actual pots, much better when thinned a little. Extra thining done by spooling some out of the pot and into the lid before adding extra water to the paint in the lid.

I'm surprised you didn't shoot a thin undercoat though Pete, you should try it, I found black worked really well on most models. I suppose it's offset by the fact I used to dry brush models to finish as well, adds an extra bit of lightness on top in the right places if you're careful and use subtle colours for highlighting edges.

[HereComesPete]

I do undercoat, just pretty much never in white. Even predominately white models like eldar from biel-tan get a grey undercoat.

[FatherJack]

As an fyi, I use this stuff, it's called Plastic Weld, it's like water but actually melts the very top layer of plastic

Is that the same as cellulose thinners? I remember my dad used it to repair some technical lego of mine from a bike that took a journey down the stairs. You can buy buckets of if from Halfords for a few quid.

[Dr. kitteny berk]

I expect that depends on what the thinners are made of (IIRC, it can be any number of things) and what the models are made of.

Acetone is always fun/handy, especially with ABS

[Dog Pants]

Oddly enough I always found citadel paints too thin, and had to use a white undercoat or else it would show through and the paint wouldn't cover it. I did the Imperial Guard up there ^ about 5 years ago, and the paints were probably about 10 years old then, some maybe even 15, so hopefully yours should be okay Joose.

[spoodie]

This is going to be my first, test project:

It doesn't really matter if I fuck it up as there's four of them.

My first job is to file down the mold lines, they're pretty obvious. But I need the tools. Do you think these are fine enough? Gamesworkshop have a set of only 3 for more money, so I'd prefer these if they are good enough.

Is there any special considerations for plastic, ie. substances that can damage it? Also which glue do you use to attach the grass and sand to the base?

And was thinking about white and black base coats as well. I was thinking of testing each for specific characters. A worthwhile effort?

[shot2bits]

Is there any special considerations for plastic, ie. substances that can damage it? Also which glue do you use to attach the grass and sand to the base?

i could be wrong here but i think some people just paint the bases and then pour the grass or sand on instead of glue