World of Tanks Guide

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Dog Pants
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World of Tanks Guide

Post by Dog Pants »

World of Tanks is a game set firmly in the 'simple to play, difficult to master' category. On the surface its arcade control and team deathmatch style gameplay are simple, but scratch the surface and you'll find a complex simulation of armour composition, penetration angles, soft points and components. So here's a guide to the simple parts, and them some of the more complex ones.

So what is it?
WoT is a free-to-play, persistent, arena style PvP game where every player controls a tank. If you've driven a tank in any of the Battlefield series then it should feel at least vaguely familiar.

Getting Started
This will be the first screen you are presented with after logging on. The tanks will be different (although you will have the one shown), but the principles are the same for all of them. I'll start with the essentials then refer back to this image later for the advanced bits. There is an in-game tutorial with little achievements (and a free premium tank at the end), which is fairly good at explaining the menu screens but no help in-game.

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1. Your tank. Lovely isn't she? You get to rotate and zoom to ogle your hardware in this window.
2. Your garage. You start with a generous 7 slots, of which 4 will be filled. These are the tier I tanks for each nation. Have a look at them and pick whichever you like, they're not mutually exclusive. If you want to put a bit more thought into your first game here's the rundown on them, but none is noticeably better than the rest and they don't really represent the nation tech trees as a whole. Also note that games aren't organised by nation, everyone is just thrown in as a mixed bag.

* T1 Cunningham (American) - Fast, poor armour, weak gun, poor tracking speed.
* Leichttraktor (German) - Good hit points, good tracking speed, weak gun.
* Renault FT (French) - Decent armour, good turret elevation, slow, poor manoeuvrability, poor tracking speed.
* MS-1 (Soviet) - Good armour, low hit points, slow.

3. The service tab is where you'll buy ammo and repair. More on that later, but make sure you don't forget to re-arm and repair.
4. Once you're familiar with 1-3, this is the button to get you into game. Go ahead and click it.

Your First Game
Here's the first thing. You're going to die. Get used to that, it happens most games. If you're lucky you might take someone out with you. A kill in WoT is an achievement. In this case, though, there's every chance you're driving the worst tank on the field. They all might look like shitty Tier I armoured tractors, but chances are most of them have upgraded guns, engines, suspension, or whatever, which gives them the advantage over you. Don't worry about it, you probably won't be that guy next game (although you'll still die). Here's what you'll see as the game counts down to start:

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1. This is you. You can zoom out further, or in for a first person view. In chase cam view you get a better idea of the dimensions of your tank, making manoeuvring and spacial awareness better. However, you have a distorted perspective. In sniper view you get an accurate perspective of what your gun can 'see', but a narrow field of view.
2. A bit hard to see in this screenshot, but that's your target reticule. You aim it with your mouse. There's two parts to it though - the bit you control directly is where you would like to aim, but the other bit (with the upside down V) is where your gun actually points. Since your turret traverses much slower than your squillion DPI mouse it takes time to catch up. It also shows you accurately what your gun will hit, taking into account cover and range. Interpreting your reticule data is in important skill to master. A few other bits about it:
* A green quarter circle on the top left is your reload meter. It's green because my gun is loaded here, but it will turn red and slowly fill while reloading.
* The similar green quarter circle in the bottom right is your health.
* The little number at the bottom is your ammo. Not usually a problem for most tanks.
* The little grey blobs to the left of the number are present in guns which use a revolver loader, and represent the number of shots left. This one is full, with 4 shots. As I use them it'll highlight three in green, two in amber, then one in red, to represent the rounds left before reloading.
* When shooting you'll see a ring of green dots (or red if you're reloading) around the reticle. This shows the round's potential deviation, and should shrink the longer you sit still and aim.
3. These are friendly tanks. There should be 15 of them knocking about, waiting for the off. Notice that above them in green they have the type of tank and a diamond. The diamond represents a light tank. Later you'll find other types have different symbols, but all T1 tanks are lights, so no need to worry about those yet.
4. Your team. It shows their name, kills, model of tank, and a little symbol which gives you more information than the rest put together:
* The number (I in this case) denotes the tier of the tank.
* The shape denotes the model of tank, but you can read that anyway.
* The colour tells you the type of tank. Light greys represent main battle tanks (light, medium and heavy). Blue/grey are tank killers, brown are SPGs. This is worth remembering.
The one on the other side is the enemy.
5. The map. You'll look at this a lot. It shows any known tanks within radio range. This means any enemies spotted by friendlies who are in range will appear, and it means friendlies can disappear if they wander too far. It also shows the objectives and an overhead view of the terrain, but take that with a pinch of salt.
6. Chat. Here be idiots.
7. Your tank readout. It shows which areas are damaged, where your turret is facing, your crew's health states, and your hit points. In all honesty, I only really look at the hit points, but it can be handy to see if they've damaged a component.
8. Your ammo. Many tanks can arm AP and HE, and the highlighted one will show you which you have loaded. It also tells you how much you have.

The timer gives you 30 seconds to check out the enemy team, check out your team, have a look around and on the map at your relative position, and have a little think about your tactics. You can try to suggest tactics in chat if you want everyone to ignore you. When the counter reaches 0 this will happen:

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That's you left on your own while the rest of the team bomb-bursts in all directions like a herd of startled cats. In fact there's a little more to it than that, though. I've zoomed in a little and enlarged the map to demonstrate some common tactics.

1. Camping. These guys are going to sit and defend the flag. It's a decent enough tactic, as you're more accurate, have better view range, and are harder to see when stationary so are more likely to see and hit oncoming targets.
2. Rushers. These guys are belting headlong towards the enemy. If they're any good they'll stop just about where they are now and hold that forward line. If they're shit they'll run into the guns of the campers on the opposite team and score them some free kills. Sometimes a rush like that can penetrate before they have chance to react and kill their vulnerable SPGs, but that's pretty rare and there are no SPGs in T1 matches. These guys are probably idiots.
3. Flankers. Around a third of the team have chosen to drive down the cliffs on the eastern flank. Not a bad tactic - they'll command an elevated view of much of the battlefield and in such numbers should probably punch through any resistance, given how convoluted the road is for the enemy to choose the same path. Because of how narrow it is, though, it'll probably also get bogged down for some time in a slugging match.

Not shown, because nobody chose to do it, are the guys going down the western cliffs. It takes longer but it's generally quieter for it. I'll do that - I've a maxed out Loltraktor and can hold my own against a few enemy tanks.

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Observe the relative positions on the minimap now. I've moved further west down the road, the flankers have moved unmolested further down the cliffs, and the rushers have stopped at the forward line. Now also note the red guy on the screen, and corresponding map symbol. He's a long way off, but could probably still hit me. I'm moving fast in and out of cover and there are other tanks around, I'm probably safe. Comparing world position and map position to get a good idea of where the enemy is is a useful skill.

Now's probably as good a time as any to mention a few handy tips:
Moving your reticule over an enemy tank will outline it in red if it is in line of sight. This is useful for scouting out enemies behind soft cover who may or may not have hard cover between you and them.
When the enemy is highlighted, right clicking on them locks the target and the tank will auto-aim. It isn't infallible - it always goes for the centre so can miss moving tanks or hit cover - but if you're moving it can be very handy.
Cover is your friend. Not really specific to this game, but presenting as small a target to the enemy as possible will keep you alive longer.
HE rounds don't do much damage, but are good at 'tracking' (knocking the tracks off) enemy vehicles, damaging components, and killing crew. All of this makes the enemy tank less effective.

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Oh dear. More enemy tanks spotted. These guys are the enemy flankers firing from the other cliffs. They've given me quite the kicking, and there's a lot going on on-screen. Notice the wobbly view and red direction indicator to tell me I've been hit. It isn't something you won't notice. You can see the guy who fired up on the cliff just inside the top of my reticule, and on the western road on the map. That's all I'll be thinking about here, but since we have the moment preserved in screenshot lets look at the damage on the bottom left diagram. For a start it's taken me down to something like 15% hit points, so I've been hit with something nasty. The picture shows I was hit in the turret - the section is highlighted red, and there's also a red picture of a turret. That means I now can't turn my gun unless I turn the whole tank. I can also see the binocular symbol is highlighted too. That means my commander has been hit, reducing my view range and loading speed (since he doubles as a loader). This is bad, and with the timer on 13:36 I'm only 1:24 into the game.

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Oh. I ran into a wall in panic. I got part of the way through before it stopped me, and the snipers in the hills picked me off. Mass and momentum is modelled, so a Loltractor was never going to smash through so many walls. A heavy tank would have barely noticed them. That guy who shot me will stay spotted for the rest of the team for a few seconds, so my sacrifice at least counts as recon. Misery loves company too, and I'm not the first guy to die on my team, as shown by the team list on the left. At the bottom of the screen it shows friendly kills in green and enemy kills in red (me, in this case). This is mirrored just above the minimap.

Now I'm dead, 1:38 into the game. As the little graphic at the bottom shows, I can hang about spectating or go back to the garage. Choosing the latter means this tank will remain in-game until the game ends, but I can take another tank out for another game. Death doesn't mean hanging about waiting, just grab another tank and jump back in. You get XP and money either way, just more if you get some kills, don't die, and win.

Next up: Upgrading your tank, tank types, and choosing your path through the tech trees.
Last edited by Dog Pants on July 26th, 2012, 11:33, edited 2 times in total.
Reason: Added Pete's suggestions
HereComesPete
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Re: World of Tanks Guide

Post by HereComesPete »

Lubberly stuff pants! - couple things - I see the TD colour as blue? Possibly an eye thing. And HE (on penetration) is the crew killer and module destroyer so useful for more than just tracking.

Oooh, and also a general bit of advice - the tier 1's don't really represent any general trend in the different countries tank style so just have fun. I'm sure Pants' guide on upgrading and such will cover the different trends in the later tiers. Also Also - have a look at this, the tankopedia.

I've cleared a slot in the garage for a T1 if anyone's thinking of giving this a go and fancies platooning up.
Dog Pants
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Re: World of Tanks Guide

Post by Dog Pants »

Okay, onwards. You've played your first battle and it probably went pretty similarly to how mine went. Don't let that discourage you - I had a fully upgraded Loltraktor and scores of hours worth of experience and still got omgwtfpwned. Some days you'll be the guy on the hill getting the multi-kills and it's all worth while. Back to the garage then. First up, repair and rearm your tank by clicking on the Service button (3 in the main screen image back up there).

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Tick the boxes to repair and rearm automatically. There's probably an advantage to no doing in that you might want different ammo, prevent yourself stocking ammo on a gun which you're about to upgrade, or repairing a tank you're about to sell. The advantages of not forgetting to rearm massively outweigh the little money saved though. Don't worry about consumables or gold ammo, click accept. You can pretty much forget about this screen from now on, and you'll have a nicely repaired tank. Any crew killed are magically resurrected.

Now take a look at the bits in the top right.

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The bottom three are the interesting ones (you'll have less than this, don't worry). The one with the silver coins is your cash. You earn this in battle and generally use it to upgrade your tank, buy new tanks, replace ammo, and repair. The one with the gold star is general XP, which is earned as 5% of any XP you make and can be spent on any tank's upgrades. The one with the silver star is your XP for that tank, which you use to buy research upgrades. You might have enough to buy an upgrade, so click on the research button.

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This is the partially complete research tree for my lovely Leopard Tier IV scout. You can see the upgrades are highlighted differently:

Brown/yellow boxes have been researched. Some components are used in different tanks, so later on you might find some of these already complete.
Shaded boxes are those yet to be researched, which you don't have enough XP for.
Green bordered boxes are those yet to be researched which you do have enough XP for. This includes general XP, so keep an eye on what you're spending if you want to save that general XP for another tank.

Hopefully you'll have a few things highlighted in green. If not you should do in another battle or two. So what do all the components do?

The one with the picture of tracks is suspension. This increases your turning rate and gives you a greater load capacity, which in turn lets you fit better turrets.
Engines increase the engine power of the tank, pretty much equating to speed.
Radios increase your comms range, allowing you to see friendly and spotted enemy tanks at a greater distance. This is very useful for Tank Destroyers and SPGs.
Turrets (no upgrade options in this example) increase your gun tracking speed and allow heavier guns to be mounted. Most Tank Destroyers and SPGs don't have turrets.
Guns often vary in performance increase, and the most expensive might not necessarily be the best. They tend to either be a more advanced but smaller calibre, increasing accuracy, rate of fire and penetration, or a larger calibre which increases damage.
lastly you might notice there's a tank there at the bottom too. Unlock this upgrade to allow purchase of that tank. Most of the time these upgrades will be the next tier version of the tank you're in, but some cross over to new types.

Decide what you want to upgrade, then go back to the main screen. You'll need to buy that upgrade you've researched, so click on the appropriate icon above the garage (6 on the main screen image) and select the upgrade from the list. Your tank might show the new component depending on the upgrade. Also, if it's a gun, be sure to go back into the Service screen and buy new ammo.

This is the point where you need to think about future tanks and what you'd like to play. Different nations have different strengths and weaknesses in general. You can either concentrate entirely on one nation's tree, or follow a particular type for different nations as I have done. Neither has any particular advantage, but trying to unlock all tanks for all nations will obviously hinder your advance. Here's a look at my advance through the German tech tree:

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You can see that my Loltraktor has led to several tank upgrades; the Sturmpanzer I Bison on the left, which is the start of the SPG tree, the PzKpfw II and PzKpfw 38 (t) in the middle, which are light tanks leading to mediums and heavies further down, and the Panzerjager I Tank Destroyer on the right. I've chosen to focus my German tech on light tanks while taking TDs and SPGs from other nations, but equally valid would be to take all types of tank from the German tree, or focus on one type in order to speed up your advance. Let's pause for a quick rundown of the types and nations;

Main Battle Tanks (MBTs): Light, Medium and Heavy tanks all fill a similar role. Versatile and generally well armoured compared to other types of their tier, they are the most manoeuvrable and have the best view range. Therefore they are used as attacking tanks, and will form the main types of a team.
Self Propelled Guns (SPGs): Serve the role of field artillery. Hitting the SHIFT key gives them a satellite view of the battlefield upon which to drop high calibre shells on the enemy. Trajectories are modelled, so expect to find enemy tanks scuttling around cover to stay out of your line of fire. SPGs are slow and poorly armoured, usually without a turret and with a long reload time. Keeping out of the way of the front lines is important. SPGs when used correctly are powerful offensive tanks.
Tank Destroyers (TDs): Tank Destroyers are similar to SPGs in that they are lightly armoured and often slow, but they mount high calibre direct fire guns. This makes them useful in a defensive role, sitting ahead of the SPGs and sniping. Their turning rate is often poor, so they are better at range.

Have a think about which of these roles sounds most appealing. Personally I develop one of each for variety, and there's little to be lost at least trying the Tier II tanks for each type. Then have a think about which nation you want to allocate to which development line you'll follow too. These descriptions taken direct from the wiki:

American
American tanks are overall great tanks having good manoeuvrability, firepower, accuracy and they have the best rate of fire, giving them the highest damage per minute and making them exceptionally versatile. Their downside is the lack of sufficient hull armour and they are prone to crew loss.

American light tanks pack a bit more of a punch than their counterparts, but they do lack a bit in manoeuvrability and speed.
American medium tanks are perfect for variable strategies as they are able to both move quickly and deliver the firepower when needed. They excel in dogfighting.
American heavy tanks have very weak hulls compared to their counterparts, but they have nearly-impenetrable front turret armour.
American tank destroyers have varied playing styles. The line starts out with a typical tank destroyer playing style with a great choice of guns, then leads to two tank destroyer lines; one with turrets and one mostly without turrets. Higher tier tank destroyers on the non-turreted line tend to be very well armed and armoured, but they are extremely slow, so tread carefully. On the other hand, higher tier turreted tank destroyers tend to be very well armed but poorly armored. They are much more mobile compared to the non-turreted line. For these tank destroyers, acting as support is advised.
American self propelled guns have good speed, but low acceleration. Their accuracy and firepower land somewhere between the Soviet and German artillery. This mix of speed, fair accuracy, and firepower makes them the best overall artillery.

German
German tanks have thick armor and they have the best accuracy. They are the kings of long-range combat. Their downside is that they have insufficient firepower, they are slow to move, they are prone to engine fire and module damage.

German light tanks are just below the USSR in terms of maneuverability, but they are able to avoid gunfire while trying to penetrate enemy lines.
German medium tanks tend to be larger targets than their counterparts, but if you keep this in mind and stay at a distance, the German guns will make a short work of your enemies.
German heavy tanks have thick armor, allowing them to tread safely over everything on the battlefield as they creep towards the enemy base.
German tank destroyers are fairly big and thus hard to hide, but are equally armored with the Americans. They combine their armor with powerful cannons and the accuracy of a sniper, and these tanks can destroy higher-tier tanks from across the battlefield.
German self propelled guns are accurate and very fast, allowing them to quickly change position after firing to dodge any counter-fire lobbed in their direction. They may not have as much firepower as their counterparts, but are unmatched in accuracy and manoeuvrability.

French
French tanks vary wildly between the tiers. At lower tiers, they are generally slow with great armour but armed with poor guns. While at higher tiers, they are very fast with almost paper thin armour and armed with great guns. Some mid to high tier French tanks can use automatic loaders, which allow for several shots in a short period of time. Almost all French tanks suffer from having few crew members which makes for less variety when choosing crew skills or perks. Their downside is the lack of sufficient hull and turret armour at higher tiers and they are sometimes prone to engine fire.

French light tanks are slow and have thick armour at lower tiers, but they trade armour their for speed at higher tiers. They gain the ability to use automatic loaders much earlier than the other French lines. Combined with their high speed and small size, they become deadly hit-and-run vehicles.
French medium tanks also have thick armour at lower tiers. At high tiers they trade their armour for extremely high speed and agility; combined with their automatic loaders, they become great support vehicles. Their paper thin armour makes them very vulnerable to SPG damage however, so keeping on the move is essential.
French heavy tanks are well armoured at lower tiers, but are slow and sluggish. As the tiers rise, they become faster and more manoeuvrable, but trade armour for this agility. They use large calibre guns with automatic loaders, which make them very destructive. With their paper thin armour, the use of cover is essential.
French tank destroyers have relatively weak armour at lower tiers, but have good guns. Later in the line, their armour increases along with speed. However, their side armour is rather weak so it essential to have support at all times. Their guns also have great penetration values and good accuracy, so they are not to be taken lightly.
French self propelled guns are well armoured and accurate with a good rate of fire and top speed, but suffer from lower damage than their rivals.

Soviet
Soviet tanks have weak armour but are sloped, making their weak armour thick. Their sloped armour enable the enemy to get chances of shell richochet. They also have the best firepower in the game. They are the kings of close combat. They are also fast and maneuverable. Their downside is that they have poor accuracy and aim time, sometimes they have bad rate of fire, they are prone to ammo rack detonation and sometimes they are prone to engine fire.

Soviet light tanks are typically the fastest in the game and, like most Soviet tanks, have a small frontal profile and sloped armour.
Soviet medium tanks are also fast and manoeuvrable, but in order to make the tanks compact, engineers placed ammo storage in very vulnerable places, increasing the chance of ammo rack detonation.
Soviet heavy tanks have the best values for everything except accuracy and aim time; their frontal armour thickness and slope make them almost invulnerable from the front. Their higher tiers also have greater speed and agility than the other tanks.
Soviet tank destroyers are not as well armoured or accurate as their American or German counterparts, but they offer increased speed, agility, and brute firepower.
Soviet self propelled guns are generally quite accurate but don't do much damage. However, they also generally fire their shells in a very high arc, making their flight time long, but able to hit tanks hiding behind rocks and small buildings. They also tend to have higher firing rates than their counterparts.

You will find while playing that no one nation or type dominates the battlefield. The balance in the game is pretty much spot on, so take claims of 'this nation has the best of this type of tank' with a pinch of salt. Take a few of the Tier IIs out for a spin and make your own decisions as to which development paths you want to follow.

Next up: Real cashmoney and all the little weird bits you'd spend ages googling otherwise.
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